☘️ Ireland, One Road at a Time

In early 2016, I decided to take a career break and spend some time in the UK visiting friends, it was a pause I didn’t know I needed until I finally took it. It felt like the right moment to step back, reconnect, and remind myself what it felt like to move without a schedule.

After flying from Cape Town to London, I made my way to Surrey, where one of my closest girlfriends lived. We spent a night catching up — the kind of easy laughter that only comes from years of friendship — before heading off on a small adventure we’d dreamed up over tea: a road trip across Ireland.

We flew from London to Shannon Airport, landing in the gloomy light of an Irish summer’s day, that soft grey sky that somehow feels comforting the moment you step into it. From the airport, we went straight to pick up our hired car. And guess who ended up behind the wheel? Me. At that point, I had never driven outside South Africa, so this was a first, and one I’ll never forget. The roads were narrow, and driving through the countryside with trucks flying around bends at full speed had my heart skipping a few beats (and my friend laughing nervously beside me 😅).

We decided to do a road trip from the west to the east of Ireland, and our first stop was Doolin, a small seaside village where the sea meets the countryside. It’s known for its traditional wool knitwear, but also for being close to the Cliffs of Moher and the Aran Islands, which made it the perfect base for us.

We spent a few days exploring the little town, climbing up to Doolin Castle, taking a ferry to the Aran Islands, and standing in awe at the Cliffs of Moher, where the wind seemed to carry centuries of stories.

On our first night, we wandered into a local pub. It was packed, buzzing with music, chatter, and that easy Irish charm. We found a spot at a medium-sized table, already half-occupied by a group of German tourists. It was unexpectedly cozy, just strangers sharing stories over pints, laughter blending into the music. The potato soup we ordered was simple but perfect, it was thick, creamy, and comforting. I still wish I’d taken a photo of it; it was one of those meals that quietly stays with you.

One afternoon, we stopped at a little restaurant in the village for the life of me I can’t remember the name now, but I still remember the meal: a warm chickpea curry served with salad and chips, and (of course) a pint of Guinness. The combination just worked — hearty, filling, and satisfying in that way only travel food can be🍛🍺.

Evenings and afternoons like that sum up Doolin perfectly its friendly, unpretentious, and full of heart.

Driving east toward Dublin, we made a stop in Galway, a coastal city with its own charm. We quickly wandered the streets, taking in the city centre… but ultimately, we were just looking for lunch. And out of all things, we ended up getting tacos.Very Irish, hey? 😆Not the traditional meal you’d expect on the west coast of Ireland, but those tacos were so good, I’ve loved them ever since 🌮.

From Galway, we continued the drive through rolling green hills and small towns. Our accommodation was supposed to be in Dublin, but as the GPS led us further and further away, we ended up somewhere outside the city, a place called Drogheda, as we later discovered.

We got so lost that we genuinely thought Drogheda was Dublin 😅, completely convinced we were in the right spot while the GPS had us looping in circles. I think my friend and I even got a little frustrated with one another — the hungry, tired kind of frustration that hits after a long day on the road.

But after a few too many wrong turns, we finally arrived at our destination. By the time we checked in, it was late, we were starving, and eventually all we could do was laugh at how ridiculous the whole situation had been. We dropped our bags, freshened up, and headed out to grab something quick to eat at a local restaurant, it was nothing fancy, just enough to end the day right.

The next day, we took a trip out to Howth, a beautiful coastal town just outside Dublin. It was adventurous in its own gentle way, the salty sea air, cliffside views, and fishermen in the way distance hauling in their morning catch.

We started our visit with lunch in the village, then wandered along the harbour before stopping by the Howth Market, where the baked goods looked absolutely delicious 😋.

Afterwards, we trekked out towards the Baily Lighthouse, one of Howth’s most iconic viewpoints. It actually started off as a sunny day, but in true Irish fashion, the weather switched up on us halfway through — one minute bright, the next a little gloomy. But even with the change in weather, the views were absolutely breathtaking. Worth every step.

It was the perfect, peaceful end to our shared road trip before my friend flew back to Surrey.

After she left, I made my way into Dublin city, where I spent a couple of days exploring on my own. I have this little thing whenever I travel, I look for the best cafés in the city, and I always try sushi, just to see how it compares. Dublin didn’t disappoint.

One of my mornings in Dublin, I managed to grab a simple breakfast in the city. It was poached eggs with crispy bacon, nothing fancy, but honestly so delicious. I also tried a few other bits and pieces along the way… little tastes here and there that just made the morning feel complete.

Between wandering, sipping and people-watching, I explored Temple Bar, visited Trinity College, and strolled along the River Liffey, letting the city unfold at its own gentle pace.

Dublin was a city that truly surprised me. I hadn’t researched much before going.I just arrived and let it happen. It has that unmistakable Irish charm: sweet, welcoming, and warm. I had such a good time…

But Liverpool was calling, a city that has always held a special place in my heart.

So, with a full heart (and full stomach), I packed my bags and continued on to the next chapter of my 2016 adventure.

If you want to start this travel series of One from the beginning, here’s Chapter 1: 👉 Taiwan, One Bite at a Time.

Published by Jen Lu

Hey, I’m Jen, South African-Canadian living in Toronto, a storyteller, home cook, wanderer, wife, and new mama with a suitcase full of spices and snacks from wherever we’ve just been.

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